Saturday, December 29, 2012

Make your own Chess Board

I decided to get my husband a Chess board for Christmas. However, everything online was boring and it was difficult to tell which items were of good quality, as I wanted a board we could leave out for decoration. I found some great stuff on Etsy, but a $75 board was not in my budget. I briefly thought about making one but realized I was probably crazy, until I got some outside motivation from a co-worker. So I went to Lowe's and gave it a shot, and guess what it was fun and not super difficult; plus I got to use power tools! : )



Tools I needed:
One board (pick one at least as wide as you want your board) I used a 16 x 36 whiteboard
Saw (if your board isn't the exact size)
Sander
Hammer (for a weathered look)
Wood burning tool
Two colors of stain (a dark one and a lighter one)
Ruler
Pencil
Medium Stain Sponge
Small stain sponge or brush
I also used a 12 x 12 piece of scrapbook paper

This is what I started with



Using the Jigsaw


I measured my piece of wood to be 16 x 16 as I decided this would be a good chess board size and I could do a 12 x 12 playing space. I used the jigsaw to attempt to cut a straight line. I'm not too experienced with the saw and it wasn't too straight of a line but I figured this was perfect because I was intending on creating a weathered/beat up look anyway. I then sanded down any of the edges that were too rough.

Then I beat up the piece of wood. Fun stuff!  I took a hammer and hit it randomly all over even on the edges. I used both sides of the hammer so I had different looks. I also made sure to put deep scratches in the wood and hit down some of the corners.

Next, it was time to create the playing space. A chess board has 64 squares. I decided to make my space 12 x 12 which would have roughly 1.5 inch squares. (This is a little smaller than a tournament board). I measured 1 inch from each side of the board and marked with a pencil. I then used the piece of scrapbook paper and traced around it to make sure I had an exact square. Make sure to double check your measurements. Once you have your square, measure out the 1.5 inch squares and draw them on lightly.

I put more weathering in the wood by putting some burn marks with the wood burning tool.

I then traced the pencil markings with the wood burning tool. All around the board the squares.

Here I had left some of the square undone, make sure to do all of it as it will help with staining and
give a clearer look.

Next I stained the dark squares. Be careful as it may bleed a little into the other squares. The wood burning should help a little to stop the spread. I used a small sponge painting tool and didn't go right up against the square edge. Any bleeding I had seemed to disappear with the top stain.
 

You don't have to wait long for the stain to dry before you do your lighter top stain. Just make sure you do the darker stain on the bottom and the light stain last. I took the lighter stain and applied it over the entire board with a stain sponge. I wiped it off with a cloth right after I applied it to give it a more weathered look. Let the top dry for a bit and then remember to do the back and sides.



After the stain sits for awhile it may soak into the wood more making the color lighter. Keep that in mind if you want dark rich squares as you may need to do a second coat before you do the top stain.

I was able to give my husband a unique, one of a kind Christmas present and find another new hobby. There are so many options in creating a game board like this. I can envision using scrapbook paper and mod podge or making team colored boards. Now I just need to find the unique antiqued chess pieces I want to replace the plastic ones I bought cheap just so we can play.


Sunday, November 4, 2012

Cabinet Make-Over


This is what our spare bathroom looked like when we first bought it. We did a lot of initial changes: a good cleaning, several coats of paint and primer, new mirrors, new flooring, and new lights. However, it still had a nasty old nicotine smell that I got a whiff of every time I walked by.

I started noticing that the white cabinets I liked looked pretty dingy and dirty and that the shelf/closet was retaining a lot of the smell. I figured a touch up of paint may eliminate the smell and help me to not hate going in that bathroom.


I thought I might stick with white but decided to change it up. I really like dark cabinetry and thought why not give it a try. I used a Valspar dark granite, which looks like a very dark brown.

Final Result:






And the closet:




Tips for refinishing cabinets:

Tools: a paint brush, small sponge rollers, small sponge brushes

1) Preparation: There wasn't a gloss on these cabinets so I didn't need to do any stripping or sanding. I just cleaned the cabinets really good with some 409 and removed all of the hardware and soaked the hardware in hot water and dish soap. (don't clean the cabinets with pledge before painting because it can cause a waxy build-up that would be hard to paint on)

2) Primer: I used Kilz primer as the cabinets had nicotine build-up and part of my goal in painting was to remove the smell.

3) Painting: I did two coats of paint on the interior of the cabinetry and three coats on the outside of the doors and exterior cabinet frame. It took a long time but the result was good with a nice smooth coating.

4) I used a small foam brush to get into all the nooks and crannies and to get into hard to reach spots. This made a nice smooth look with no streaks. Then, I used a small foam roller to go over the cabinets. This worked really well. I had no streaky brush marks and the roller was good for small areas. To paint the doors I put a paperback book down and sat the door on top of it. This kept the door from sticking to my protective work area (newspaper) and allowed me to get the sides easily.

5) Hardware: Luckily the pulls on the cabinet were pretty new, but the hinges were old and the hardware on the closet was an old gross brassy color. I spray painted the old pieces with silver metallic spray paint. I don't know how long it will hold up on the closet pulls but for now it has a really nice look.

I'm really happy with how everything turned out, and the smell is gone!  Only problem is now I want to paint all the trim and the bathroom door to match.

Monday, September 3, 2012

How to Hem Jeans

If you are like me you have the short girl problem of jeans never fitting. I buy the short size in store and they are still always an inch or two too long. I came across a Pinterest post a while back about how to hem jeans and keep the original hem. This grabbed my interest because I hate the look of hemmed jeans that cut off the original hem, which results in me just walking around with too long of jeans and tearing up the bottoms.

 I really wanted to find an old pair of jeans to try this on in case I messed it up. Luckily I found a pair of Calvin Klein Jeans in good shape at Goodwill and they were perfect for my experiment. I found the link and the time today to try it and it worked really well. You can tell you hemmed them but anyone looking at you shouldn't have a clue. I've included the link below. This blogger really explains the process well:

http://refashionmama.wordpress.com/2011/12/17/alteration-my-new-favorite-way-to-keep-original-hem-on-jeans/

Burlap Tote Bag--


I made this burlap re-usable shopping bag/storage tote for my friends wedding. I finished it up after the fact so I was able to add some personalization from their wedding. 


Sadly I don't have great step-by-step instructions on how to make this because I kind of winged it. Briefly, I cut the basic front and back pieces from a large tote bag pattern I had. I cut burlap and a blue cotton lining for both the front and back. I then pieced the lining and burlap together. I cut a roughly six inch wide piece of blue fabric for the binding around the top. I just made sure it was long enough by laying it over the pattern. I sewed the binding on before joining the front and back pieces. I then made handles by cutting two long strips of burlap and folding each in half (hotdog style) and sewing. I then attached one to the front and one to the back panels and eyed it to make sure they lined up. I then sewed them on making sure they were sturdy. I then sewed the front and back together. 


I used fabric paper (can get at walmart or a craft store) to create the map on the front. I put the paper in my printer and the map/postcard from the wedding into my copier and copied onto the fabric paper. Let the fabric paper dry for a while. This paper was iron on so I placed it where I wanted it and fused it to the bag. You can also buy sew-able fabric paper. I used a piece of cardboard in the base of the bag to add support.


Burlap is interesting to work with. It frays very easily and can be itchy and rough. You can make it easier to cut by tearing out a string of the burlap along the line where you want to cut. It's also very messy and you can end up with fibers everywhere. I really didn't have any problems with sewing it though. I did use a zigzag stitch for extra support and to keep the burlap from fraying as easily.

Sunday, August 26, 2012

Refinishing a Craigslist Desk Part Two...

Well the craigslist desk is almost finished. Just waiting on the polyurethane to dry and I need to find some handles. I went with a dark walnut stain and Academy Gray Paint.




Still needs handles, but it's coming along. 



 I did a coat of primer, and two coats of Academy Gray paint. I put the first coat on with a paint brush and then the final coat I did with a small foam roller for cabinets. It seemed to do a good, smooth job, but was a little different to work with. I also did two coats of polyurethane on the top. You put the first coat on with a sponge brush and let it dry for 3-4 hours and then hand sand very lightly with fine sandpaper over the whole top. I was worried about this because it seemed to take away some of my color and I was afraid it would leave scratch marks. However, after I wiped away the dust and put on a second coat of polyurethane, everything looked good.

 (the color of the base did not show up well, it's not nearly that bright)


 Now I just need to find some 6 inch handles.


Saturday, July 14, 2012

Stages of Refinishing a Craigslist Desk

My Free Craigslist Desk





Desk after sanding the top.

Sanded Top



Desk after the first coat of stain on the top and primer on the base.


First Coat of Primer and Stain

Be careful with the stain or your foot may appear to be diseased : )
More to Come....

Sunday, July 8, 2012

Crafty Business Card Holder



I found a pattern for a business card holder the other day on Pinterest and though I would give it a try. I used the pattern for the measurements but then tried a couple of different ways of creating it. The woman did have a wonderful idea of using a hair tie for the latch. Here is the link to her pattern:  http://craftycupboard.blogspot.com/2011/03/how-to-business-card-holder.html


One thing I did different is that I did not use the fusible fleece; a) I didn't have any and b) I thought a piece of cardboard would make the holder more sturdy. So I inserted a piece of cardboard in between my layers.

I cut out all my pieces using the sizing from the above blog. Instead of the fleece I cut a piece of cardboard to be a bit smaller than the lining so there would be room to sew around the cardboard.

I first hemmed the inner pieces as suggested and then attached them to the inner lining. I then sewed three sides of the inner and outer lining together with right sides facing. Then I turned the piece so it would be right side out and then inserted the cardboard. Then I inserted the hair band into the middle of the fourth side and sewed up the fourth side. I folded the piece in half and then sewed a button on the opposite side of the hair tie.


Trial and Error Apron



I've seen some pictures lately of some really cute aprons (not that I'd say I'm really the apron type but whatever). Unfortunately, I couldn't find a good free pattern for an apron, though I hate patterns any way so maybe it's for the best. I decided to wing it. I'll explain my process, though since it was a lot of winging it I'm not sure it'll be too helpful for anyone to follow.


First, I picked out some scrap fabric that I had. I then went to my closet and found a skirt and tank top. I picked a skirt that I liked the shape of and a tank top that was more form fitting. I then laid the skirt down on the denim fabric and traced around the skirt with a fabric pencil. I did the same with the t-shirt though I only traced the sides and bottom. I then cut out both pieces following the pencil marks. For the top of the shirt that I hadn't traced I just cut straight across. 

What I wish I had though of then: fold the skirt in half, and the shirt in half and fold your fabric in half, then trace. This would have allowed for more symmetrical pieces.

I then did a half inch hem line along all sides of my skirt. And a 1/4 inch around my top. (I didn't do a 1/2 inch because I was afraid it would take too much fabric. I then sewed the bottom of my top and the top of my skirt together. In all my precise ways I held the skirt and top up to myself to determine where they needed to connect.

I then purchased some satin blanket binding and some single fold bias tape from Jo-Ann's for the sash and embellishment. Really you can make your own out of fabric but I don't have the patience for tedious tasks.

You can't tell from this picture but I put black bias tape on both sides of the shirt.I then took the black blanket binding and attached it to the upper part of my top. I pinned the binding in between my top and bottom and sewed it to the sides. Make sure you use enough binding. Once again in all my precision I wrapped the binding around my waist to see how much I would need. Sew the ends of your binding so they do not fray.

Then I took the single fold bias tape and attached it to the sides of the top. I made sure there was enough tape so I could pull the apron over my head. After I completed this task I realized that my top was a little loose in the chest area. so I folded the top part in at the sides and sewed it in place. (Remember it's all trial and error here). Next time I would put my neck straps in a little farther initially.

I then took a square ruler and cut out a piece of fabric for a pocket. I did a hem of about 1/2 inch on three sides and 1 inch on the top. I then put the apron on to decide where I would want the pocket. I pinned it in place and then sewed it to the skirt on three sides.

And a few hours later, there you have it. My first, trial by error apron with no pattern. : ) I think it will serve it's purpose.